What is ChexSystems?

Commonly referred to as the first of the three major "Check Systems" in the U.S., Chex Systems is an association of financial institutions that network together in order to develop a database that maintains the records of mutually unwanted customers. To make sure that only financially responsible individuals open up checking accounts at member institutions, these banks report on customers who demonstrate poor financial management skills. When a customer's checking account is closed due to demonstrated mismanagement, then he or she is reported to Chex Systems. Once done, the customer will have a very difficult time opening up an account at any other financial institution partnered with Chex Systems for the next five years.

Since the vast majority of financial institutions (banks) reject potential customers who are on file at Chex Systems, being reported to them can put an individual at an extreme disadvantage. But what, exactly, does it take to get a checking account closed and reported to Chex Systems in the first place? The answer the bank usually gives out is simply "closed for cause." Yet there are many ways that a customer can end up having his or her account terminated. These range from acts as serious as fraud to the simple irresponsibility that leads to excessive overdrafts. It is important to remember, however, that policy can vary greatly between financial institutions. Depending upon which bank is in question, instances in which accounts are "closed for cause" can involve customers:

? not reimbursing their bank for overdraft amounts

? misusing savings accounts, ATMs or debit cards

? offering information that is misleading at the time the account is opened

Yet while there are many factors that can lead to account closure, banks are not always forthcoming about the specific reason for terminating an account. This can lead to some confusion when one seeks the reason for being denied a new account. Fortunately, anyone who has been blocked from opening an account at a financial institution due to the involvement of Chex Systems can request a copy of their Chex Systems file and use the information provided on our website to begin banking again quickly.


By Scott Felix

Budgeting Made Easy

Well, dang! From what I've heard and read, it looks like we've reached an all-time world-class new record in the amount of personal debt on the books. Now it's probably not quite as bad as we've been led to believe, however many of us have managed to tromp further than we should have into the financial swamp. How well we'll be able to find our way back out to dry ground will depend on our knowing just where the heck we are in the first place. And that takes us right to the "B" word.

"Budgets"

For some of us, the word immediately congers up visions of frowning accountant-type folks, complicated computer programs and mountains of wadded up balls of scratch paper piling up around the kitchen table. For those of us who are fiscally challenged and would prefer to place our faith entirely in the benevolence of the Saints of the Oblivious Shopper, even the mention of the "B" word is enough to drive us to the emotional security of watching the latest TV reality shows.

I really hate to be the one to break the news to you, but just stuffing the bills behind the rooster cookie jar on the counter until you get around to paying some of them is not a real good start toward financial security. Nor is the technique of paying what you can until you run out of whatever money you think you have in the checking account. Both of these will have about the same effect as the time-honored technique of tossing the bills at the wall to see if they stick. You know what I'm talking about, right? If they stick, they get paid. If not - oh well, better luck next month!

Here's a suggestion for a fairly painless step toward controlling your personal cash flow. (That's like making a budget but I didn't want to scare anyone off here?) Get a spiral binder, pick a page and draw in a bunch of columns. No, it doesn't make any difference how many. At least five would be good.

In the first column, write down the names of your expenses. You know, like food, house payment or rent, gas, car payment, electricity, phone, child care, credit cards - that kind of stuff. Put one expense name on each line as you go down the column. Don't forget the clothes, entertainment and insurance entries. Even if you pay your insurance quarterly or semi-annually, you need to break this down into a monthly "expense" so you can save for it or at least see where you stand. If you'd like, it's not a bad idea to list the expenses in payday groups. List the bills you'll need to pay from the first pay day of the month in one section of the column and create a separate group for the bills that should get your attention on the second payday. Whatever works best for you.

In the second column, write down how much you normally spend each month for each of the expense entries in the first column. If you're not sure, take your best guess and write it in pencil. You can always make adjustments later.

At the top of the remaining columns, write in the names of the months that are coming up. You'll use these columns to record your actual payments as you make them.

Now, just for the heck of it, add up your estimated expenses and compare the total to your projected monthly income. If what's going out is more than what's coming in, you know right from the get-go that you'll need to make some adjustments. If the figures show that you should have money left over at the end of the month but it never seems to work out that way, there are obviously some expenses you've forgotten about - or maybe weren't really aware of in the first place. How about maintenance on the house or car? Medical expenses? Birthday and Christmas gifts? Or how about eating out? Was this included in the food expense - or the entertainment expense? And yeah, going out for lunch and the quick snacks or drinks at your favorite convenience store need to be included somewhere.

Next - instead of shoving the bills behind the cookie jar when they come in, just toss them into the spiral binder on your current budget page. That way you'll always know exactly where they are. When you pay them, be sure to remember to write down the amount in the appropriate column.

Here are a couple of hints on bill-paying. Do it first, right after payday before you spend the money on anything else. Plan ahead. Allow at least a week for the check to travel to your lender and be credited to your account. Two weeks is even better. The last thing you want to see is a series of late payments on your credit report. If you haven't gotten a bill yet and you know it needs to be paid out of this week's paycheck, hold the money and don't spend it on other stuff.

Debit cards are great but they can quickly cause problems if we're not careful. If you like to make purchases with a debit card, be sure to tuck the receipt in your wallet and then remember to write the amount in your checkbook as soon as you get home. Then either write that amount in the appropriate column in your budget or simply toss it in the spiral binder for entry later. If you normally make several trips to the grocery store in a month, just paper clip the receipts together and enter the totals into your "ledger" a couple times a month. Weekly if you wish. If you like to pay your bills on-line, remember to enter the amount in both your checkbook and ledger.

All-in-one stores - those that carry groceries and a variety of other items - tend to complicate the budgeting process because we really should separate the purchases so we can see where we're spending our money. Make it easy on yourself. If your basket is filled mostly with groceries and the "other item" purchases are small, just enter everything in the food column. If you normally purchase a significant quantity of "other stuff" along with the groceries, you should think about either separating the expenses yourself (a pain in the rear) or having them rung up separately as you check out (also a pain in the backside). Or maybe a separate trip through the store would work better for you. Your choice?

Credit card payments. If at all possible, pay more than the minimum amount. There's no reason to keep forking over your money in the form of interest payments to big corporations for the next umpteen years if you can avoid it. It's best of course, if you can pay any credit card debt off monthly. If that's not possible, then concentrate first on the high-interest cards to get them out of the way as soon as possible. Pick one and do everything you can to get it paid off. Then go to the next one on the list and take care of it. I don't need to remind you that it's not a real good idea to charge more on these cards while you working so hard to pay them off, do I? Nah, I didn't think so. While you're at it, once a card is paid off, seriously consider canceling it. There's no good reason to have more than a couple of credit cards - of any type - in any one household. So remove the plastic temptations from your wallet and take one more step away from the swamp.

One more thing on credit cards. OK, maybe a couple more. Credit cards are for convenience and maybe emergencies. They're not to live on. Convenience for those individuals who find it advantageous to accumulate their expenditures so they can make a single payment once a month. Uh folks, that's not a good approach for most of us. We can too easily slip into believing that whatever limit is showing on the card is really our money and spend accordingly. A direct path into the swamp. As far as emergencies are concerned, it's better to have a stash of cash set aside to handle those unforeseen events, however sometimes that just isn't possible. So OK, use the cards for emergencies if necessary, but your budgeting still needs to include a potential emergency repayment amount. And let's face it, if you're stashing cash for emergency repayment it won't be long until you'll really have the money available to cover most situations and you won't need to use the card anyway. By the way, if your credit is in good shape, it's far better to snag a bank or credit union loan at a much better interest rate to handle those emergency expenses. One last thing on credit cards. If you can't pay the bill in full each month then don't use them to eat out. That creates some very expensive meals that will provide you with just enough energy to lead you even further into the swamp.

So where is this leading us? Well, after tracking all - I repeat, all - your expenditures for two or three months, you should have a real good idea of where you stand. If your monthly expenses - including allowances for maintenance, entertainment and emergencies - is greater than your income, you only have a couple of options. Either increase your income in some way such as through a part-time job or reduce your expenses. That's about it. And sure, if you're facing a major financial crisis, credit counseling may be the way to go. If that's the case, be careful of the organization you choose to help you out. Articles in MSN Money indicate that you'll be safe if you stick with either Consumer Credit Counseling Services or Myvesta (a non-profit financial crisis center).

The bottom line? By using the spiral binder budgeting technique, you'll be able to quickly get a better grasp on where your money is going - and you'll be able to see at a glance where you stand at any time during the month. Hopefully, you'll be able to also set aside some coins not only for emergencies but also for the more fun things like vacations. And if you're not doing it already, work toward being able to slide a portion of your earnings into a long-term savings account. By paying off the old credit cards, you're already taking major steps in that direction but as soon as possible, establish a real savings account where you can earn at least a little interest on your money. Consider having this direct deposited into the account from the amount you earn at your job. If you don't see it, you won't miss it as much.

One last thing. Be sure to tell your kids that the secret to a really comfortable retirement is to save just ten percent of everything they earn. Nah, they probably won't listen but it's good advice anyway?

By Gene Simmons

Reporting Identity Theft

Would you know what to do if you suspect that your personal information had been stolen and used by thieves to open new accounts? It's important that you take the right actions to clear your name as quickly as possible.

In 2005, the laws were changed to allow anyone to review their credit report yearly without having to pay a fee. You can also get a free credit report if you were denied credit during the previous 60 days. By reviewing your credit report periodically, you have a better chance of stopping any unauthorized activity more quickly. There are services that, for a small fee, will monitor your information each business day to ensure that no one else has access to your accounts.

If the worst should happen and your identity is stolen, do you know what to do first and where to report the crime? Are you aware of what forms need to be filled out, or where to send them? Often, the police won't take an active role or even open an investigation. There will be considerable paperwork to complete and send to all of the responsible companies and agencies.

The process of clearing your name can seem overwhelming at times. Having guidelines to walk you through the stages can make the difference between effectively submitting your documentation, and battling through months of bureaucratic red tape.

Although the Federal Trade Commission is the lead agency for identity theft issues, there are a number of other federal and state agencies that have jurisdiction, depending upon the type of crime committed. You may need to contact a host of agencies, companies, credit bureaus, and investigators. It frequently takes many months or even years to correct the errors.

You'll also need to keep very accurate files of all contacts, including conversations and written correspondence. It may be easiest to make a chart and include date, agency or company, contact person, and a summary of the information discussed. Keep copies of all original documents, and only send out copies. Send them certified mail, return receipt requested. That way, you have documentation of when your letters were received.

With patience, determination, and a "game plan" describing what to do, you can get through this very difficult experience and begin to put your life back together.

By Norm McAlister

I Want to Buy a Home - Now What?

If you were to ask 100 women "What would you like to achieve financially?" Buying a home or apartment is usually one of the answers. Some women think that they can never own a home - which is not true! In fact, there are so many success stories of home buyers who never thought they would get there. In addition, homeowners tend to have greater financial success in the other areas of their finances life. I've seen it over and over.

The benefits of owning a home include: building equity, saving money on taxes and an integral step towards building wealth. With interest rates so low, this is a great environment to buy a home. This article is a checklist with tips and guidelines to buying a home. If you already own a home, some of these tips will be helpful for refinancing your home. Real estate is not a substitute for stocks but it plays a big part in your financial fitness.

1) CHECK YOUR CREDIT. Get a recent a copy of your credit report, especially your FICO score (the score lenders use to determine your interest rate). Check out www.myfico.com.

2) HOW MUCH HOME CAN YOU AFFORD? Start with your monthly payment and plug it into a mortgage calculator. (Great one on www.eloan.com: Affordability Calculator). This site tells you how much home you can afford assuming certain numbers. For example, if you make $6,000 per month before taxes, you can afford anywhere from $125,000 to $345,000 assuming $25,000 as a down payment. There are different choices with the actual monthly payments. If you don't have enough saved for a down payment, create a separate savings account and come up with a savings schedule. Only borrow what you can afford!!!

3) ORGANIZE YOUR DOCUMENTS. Get together the following documentation: past 3 years of tax returns, recent paychecks, bank statements, investment statements and all other financial statements.

4) WHICH MORTGAGE IS THE BEST FOR YOU? Understand the different mortgage options. Most are based on a 30-year amortization cycle: fixed-rate, adjustable and a hybrid. Hybrids are very popular now; fixed rate for a certain amount of time and then they adjust annually. Consider a 15- or 20-year fixed rate mortgage. The payments will be a bit higher, but you will end up paying much less interest over the course of the mortgage and be debt-free much sooner!

5) SHOULD YOU PAY POINTS? A point is equal to 1% of your loan amount. You pay a point to receive a lower interest rate on your loan. If you get a low enough rate, paying points can be worth it.

6) SHOP AROUND. Work with a mortgage broker or check out a few mortgage websites: www.e-loan.com, www.bankrate.com

7) PRE-APPROVAL 6 MONTHS BEFORE BUYING A HOME. Get pre-approved for a loan from the bank or your mortgage broker. It gets the process going faster and in a competitive market, it gives you the edge.

8) MINIMIZE YOUR DEBT. Avoid big-ticket purchases so not to add to your debt load.

9) SAVE MONEY ON TAXES. Points paid for a first-time home (not for refinancing) can be deducted in the year your home was closed.

10) BE CAREFUL OF COSTS. Don't ignore transaction costs and watch closing costs very carefully. There are also many hidden costs of home buying: moving, minor renovations (especially if you are buying an older home). Make sure you are prepared.

11) DIVERSIFY, DIVERSIFY, DIVERSIFY. Don't tie up all your assets in your home.

12) PAY YOUR MORTGAGE AUTOMATICALLY. Get it taken from bank account automatically every month. You don't ruin your credit and don't forget to pay every month on time.

13) REFINANCING? · Shop around for interest rates. · Start with the bank that currently holds your mortgage. It may give you a good deal just to keep your business. · Avoid paying points. When you refinance, you can deduct only a portion of the points each year, so it's usually not a good deal. · Don't try to outsmart the market and wait for interest rates to hit their low point. If the numbers make sense for you, go for it.

14) PMI INSURANCE. You will have to pay monthly PMI insurance if you put down a down-payment less than 20%. Once you are paying your mortgage for more than a year, ask your lender to reconsider.

15) BAD CREDIT? DON'T HAVE ENOUGH FOR A DOWN-PAYMENT? · You can use your investments or securities as collateral for buying a home. · Consider a low-documentation, no documentation or sub-prime mortgage. You will pay a higher interest rate but it will help build your credit and equity. · Also, check out these government agencies: · Freddie Mac www.freddiemac.com. · Fannie Mae www.fanniemae.com. · www.hud.gov/fha.

16) OTHER MORTGAGE OPTIONS: · Bi-weekly mortgages, · Customized mortgages - usually offered by local banks, · Use investment portfolio as collateral and a smaller cash down-payment.

17) HOME INSPECTION. Have an inspection done by someone with accreditation (www.nahi.org).

18) REMODELING? If you remodel, be diligent about keeping records. The right improvements can decrease your taxable gains when you sell.

19) CAN'T AFFORD TO BUY NOW? But want to get into real estate? Check out REIT stocks or REIT mutual funds, www.investinreits.com.

By Galia Gichon

Bankruptcy Chapters Explained

Chapter 7



The potential chapter 7 debtor should understand that a straight bankruptcy case does not involve the filing of a plan of repayment as in chapter 13, but rather envisions the bankruptcy trustee's gathering and sale of the debtor's nonexempt assets, from which holders of claims (creditors) will receive distributions in accordance with the provisions of the Bankruptcy Code. Part of the debtor's property may be subject to liens and mortgages that pledge the property to other creditors. In addition, under chapter 7, the individual debtor is permitted to retain certain "exempt" property. The debtor's remaining assets are liquidated by a trustee. Accordingly, potential debtors should realize that the filing of a petition under chapter 7 may result in the loss of property.



In order to qualify for relief under chapter 7 of the Bankruptcy Code, the debtor must be an individual, a partnership, or a corporation. 11 U.S.C. §§ 109(b); 101(41). Relief is available under chapter 7 irrespective of the amount of the debtor's debts or whether the debtor is solvent or insolvent. An individual cannot file under chapter 7 or any other chapter, however, if during the preceding 180 days a prior bankruptcy petition was dismissed due to the debtor's willful failure to appear before the court or comply with orders of the court or the debtor voluntarily dismissed the previous case after creditors sought relief from the bankruptcy court to recover property upon which they hold liens. 11 U.S.C. §§ 109(g), 362(d) and (e).



One of the primary purposes of bankruptcy is to discharge certain debts to give an honest individual debtor a "fresh start." The discharge has the effect of extinguishing the debtor's personal liability on dischargeable debts. In a chapter 7 case, however, a discharge is available to individual debtors only, not to partnerships or corporations. 11 U.S.C. § 727(a)(1). Although the filing of an individual chapter 7 petition usually results in a discharge of debts, an individual's right to a discharge is not absolute, and some types of debts are not discharged. Moreover, a bankruptcy discharge does not extinguish a lien on property.



Chapter 11



A case filed under chapter 11 of the United States Bankruptcy Code is frequently referred to as a "reorganization" bankruptcy.



How Chapter 11 Works



A bankruptcy case commences when a bankruptcy petition is filed with the bankruptcy court. Fed. R. Bankr. P. 1002. A petition may be a voluntary petition, which is filed by the debtor, or it may be an involuntary petition, which is filed by creditors that meet certain requirements. 11 U.S.C. §§ 301, 303. A voluntary petition should adhere to the format of Form 1 of the Official Forms prescribed by the Judicial Conference of the United States. The Official Forms may be purchased at legal stationery stores or download from the internet at www.uscourts.gov. The voluntary petition will include standard information concerning the debtor's name(s), social security number or tax identification number, residence, location of principal assets (if a business), the debtor's plan or intention to file a plan, and a request for relief under the appropriate chapter of the Bankruptcy Code. In addition, the voluntary petition will indicate whether the debtor qualifies as a small business as defined in 11 U.S.C. § 101(51C) and whether the debtor elects to be considered a small business under 11 U.S.C. § 1121(e).



Upon the filing of a voluntary petition for relief under chapter 11 or, in an involuntary case, the entry of an order for such relief, the debtor automatically assumes an additional identity as the "debtor in possession." 11 U.S.C. § 1101. The term refers to a debtor that keeps possession and control of its assets while undergoing a reorganization under chapter 11, without the appointment of a case trustee. A debtor will remain a debtor in possession until the debtor's plan of reorganization is confirmed, the debtor's case is dismissed or converted to chapter 7, or a chapter 11 trustee is appointed. The appointment or election of a trustee occurs only in a small number of cases. Generally, the debtor, as "debtor in possession," operates the business and performs many of the functions that a trustee performs in cases under other chapters. 11 U.S.C. § 1107(a).



A written disclosure statement and a plan of reorganization must be filed with the court. 11 U.S.C. § 1121. The disclosure statement is a document that must contain information concerning the assets, liabilities, and business affairs of the debtor sufficient to enable a creditor to make an informed judgment about the debtor's plan of reorganization. 11 U.S.C. § 1125. The information required is governed by judicial discretion and the circumstances of the case. The contents of the plan must include a classification of claims and must specify how each class of claims will be treated under the plan. 11 U.S.C. § 1123. Creditors whose claims are "impaired," i.e., those whose contractual rights are to be modified or who will be paid less than the full value of their claims under the plan, vote on the plan by ballot. 11 U.S.C. § 1126. After the disclosure statement is approved and the ballots are collected and tallied, the bankruptcy court will conduct a confirmation hearing to determine whether to confirm the plan. 11 U.S.C. § 1128.



Chapter 12



In tailoring chapter 12 to meet the economic realities of family farming, this law has eliminated many of the barriers that family farmers had faced when seeking to reorganize successfully under either chapter 11 or 13 of the Bankruptcy Code. For example, chapter 12 is more streamlined, less complicated, and less expensive than chapter 11, which is better suited to the large corporate reorganization. In addition, few family farmers find chapter 13 to be advantageous, because it was designed for wage earners who have smaller debts than those facing family farmers. In chapter 12, Congress sought to combine the features of the Bankruptcy Code which can provide a framework for successful family farm reorganizations. At the time of the enactment of chapter 12, Congress could not be sure whether chapter 12 relief for the family farmer would be required indefinitely. Accordingly, the law (which first provided that no chapter 12 cases could be filed after September 30, 1993) currently provides that no cases may be filed under chapter 12 after July 1, 2000.



The Bankruptcy Code provides that only a family farmer with "regular annual income" may file a petition for relief under chapter 12. 11 U.S.C. §§ 101(18), 109(f). The purpose of this requirement is to ensure that the debtor's annual income is sufficiently stable and regular to permit the debtor to make payments under a chapter 12 plan. Allowance is made under chapter 12, however, for situations in which family farmers may have income that is seasonal in nature. Relief under this chapter is voluntary; thus, only the debtor may file a petition under chapter 12.



Chapter 13



Chapter 13 is designed for individuals with regular income who desire to pay their debts but are currently unable to do so. The purpose of chapter 13 is to enable financially distressed individual debtors, under court supervision and protection, to propose and carry out a repayment plan under which creditors are paid over an extended period of time. Under this chapter, debtors are permitted to repay creditors, in full or in part, in installments over a three-year period, during which time creditors are prohibited from starting or continuing collection efforts. A plan providing for payments over more than three years must be "for cause" and be approved by the court. In no case may a plan provide for payments over a period longer than five years. 11 U.S.C. § 1322(d).



Any individual, even if self-employed or operating an unincorporated business, is eligible for chapter 13 relief as long as the individual's unsecured debts are less than $269,250 and secured debts are less than $807,750. 11 U.S.C. § 109(e). A corporation or partnership may not be a chapter 13 debtor. Id.



An individual cannot file under chapter 13 or any other chapter if, during the preceding 180 days, a prior bankruptcy petition was dismissed due to the debtor's willful failure to appear before the court or comply with orders of the court or was voluntarily dismissed after creditors sought relief from the bankruptcy court to recover property upon which they hold liens. 11 U.S.C. §§ 109(g), 362(d) and (e).



For more information, please visit www.mybankruptcycounseling.com

Nathan Dawson

Do You Really Need the Power of Money Management Software?

I have been a loyal user of Quicken(R) for more years than I can remember. But a conversation the other day with my youngest son started me wondering whether or not I really need money management software.

The difference is what most banks have done with their online banking in the past few years.

It used to be that the only way you could keep track of your spending online, pay bills and determine where you had spent your money was to have a money management program.

However, today you can get most of that information you need from your bank. For example, we have two accounts at a bank I'll call First Denver National. When I sign on for online banking, I have a choice of Account Summary, which shows me how much money I have in each account. Bill Pay or Transfer.

If I select Account Summary and then click on the name of the account, I can see a list of all my deposits and withdrawals for the past 30 days.

When I click on a hyperlink titled "Spending Report," I can see exactly where I spent money for the past 30 days by category such as utilities or groceries.

If I choose Bill Pay, I can pay a bill once or create a recurring payment. Naturally, I have to set up payment information for each of my creditors but I have to do this only once. In my case, I have provided payment information for six of my creditors, including our local power company, satellite TV provider, telephone company and so forth. I have not established any recurring payments as all our bills vary from month to month.

When the monthly bill comes in from, say, our local power company, I open my online account, select Bill Pay, and then tell my bank which day I want the bill paid and for what amount. This all takes maybe 30 seconds.

Now, my money management program does offer many features that are not available through my bank. For example, I can quickly generate reports such as "Am I saving more or less?," "Has my spending changed in this category?," "What am I worth?", "How are my investments doing?," and "Did I meet my budget?" In addition, my program provides a lot of tax related information.

The problem is, I don't use these reports. I would guess that at least 90 percent of the information I need on a daily basis is available through my online accounts.

Don't get me wrong. Programs like Quicken and Microsoft Money(R) are powerful programs with a bevy of great features. However, before you invest in one of these programs, you need to ask yourself whether or not you really need all that power. Do you have a lot of investments you want to keep track of? Do you own a business? Do you use a tax program such as TurboTax? If the answer to any one of these questions is "yes," you probably need money management software. On the other hand, if you answered "no" to all three, you may be able to get by with just the free information available from your bank.

Before you make a final decision, there is one other factor to consider. In our case, the bank charges for both online banking and bill pay. The charge is about $10 a month or $120 a year. In comparison, a program such as Quicken Basic 2005 costs only $29.99 and includes both bill pay and online banking.* This means that if your bank changes you for either of these services, you might be better off buying a money management program - even if you never use many of its features.

*Some banks my charge for online banking even when you use a money management program. Be sure to talk with your bank before making a final decision.

(R)Quicken is a registered trademark of Intuit Corp.
(R)Microsoft Money is baa registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation.
All other registered names are the property of their respective owners.

Strategies for Success

Holy Shenanigans! More STUFF?

Loosing one's business due to lack of personal control is a sad thing. I've watched many people do just exactly that. Recently, a friend told me that her only money is in her business account and she's been using it rather freely. The business is losing money. It's going under, because it can't support itself. She has another income, but she's not living within her means.

So, what is she buying with 'her money'? Frivolities, unnecessary trivialities, and 'bargains'. She and I have discussed the 'bargains' she buys. She's got more STUFF than any ten people NEED, and she still buys because it makes her 'feel good'. The fact of the matter is, she owns a big old building completely full of 'STUFF' she refuses to 'sell' because it's got personal value, and it's important to her, but the roof is falling in on the building, pigeons are in the building pooping on all of her prized possessions, so she buys more 'STUFF' to solve the problem. Ten dollar swimming pools to keep the rain from dripping onto her antique furniture and collectibles, plastic to cover them. Meanwhile the mice are eating through the upholstery and gnawing through the antique woods.

The reason she does this - is it provides her with emotional 'security'. As long as she has 'STUFF' she has 'security', she thinks. In the mean while, she's working at a job to support her 'STUFF' habit, and loosing her business, because she's wasting the money from her 'business', instead of using it to build a business that would eventually support her - if she didn't have all that 'STUFF' draining her income. She doesn't have security; she has 'STUFF' being ruined by the frivolous manner in which she is spending her money.

To say she is eccentric, actually only gives credence to her behavior. The fact of the manner is, she doesn't have the money to be eccentric. She has 'STUFF' which isn't going to get her anywhere, because her 'STUFF' is not appreciating, it's getting ruined. She has friends, but she doesn't listen to them, she has to have her 'STUFF'. I'm actually afraid my friend is going to be a lonely old person taking care of her 'STUFF' because she just can't quite realize that she needs to build relationships with people, and let go of her 'STUFF'.

One time, I even ask her about 'friends' and she responded she doesn't have anyone she can trust. I can understand why. She's worked her entire life to develop a relationship with her 'STUFF'. I consider her a friend, and I have gone the extra mile to make our friendship work. I wonder sometimes at my dedication to the friendship - because sometimes I feel like I'm working toward a dead end. Particularly when it comes to her business. I worked for nothing at times while I attempted to help her get her business up and running. I felt eventually it would be worth something to her. But, she feels if she buys me 'stuff' she's somehow making it worth my time to help her. Her values are misplaced, and her priorities are dysfunctional.

The saddest thing is, she's filling up her business with her 'STUFF' and when she looses the business, and she will loose her 'STUFF' too. Then what will she do? Her 'STUFF' isn't taken care of, it's just stashed there, taking up space and loosing value.

Every time I see her, I want to scream, "Holy Shenanigans, MORE STUFF!" But, I don't think she would understand the problem - EVEN then!!!

By Jan Verhoeff

Credit Card Debt - Watch Your Credit Report and Your Bill

Most consumers are aware of the importance of their credit report. This document, offered to consumers and lenders by the three major credit bureaus, offers a fairly complete list of financial transactions and debts incurred by a consumer. Lenders examine the report, along with the associated FICO score, to determine whether a consumer is worthy of receiving additional credit or loans. What many consumers may not know is that credit card companies regularly check their credit reports, and unfavorable entries may result in a higher interest rate on their credit cards.

We have previously noted that many credit card companies employ something known as a "universal default clause" in their terms of service. This clause allows the company to raise interest rates on the customer's card if the customer pays bills late. A late payment to the phone company could result in a higher interest rate on the Visa card. Most companies also allow themselves the latitude to raise their customers' interest rates for any reason at all. With this in mind, the credit card companies tend to run occasional credit checks on their customers, often raising rates if they notice any activity that, in their opinion, makes the customer a higher risk. This might happen even if the customer has a history of paying his or her credit card bills on time.

The sorts of things that may create a "risky" client include taking out additional loans, additional credit cards, or building balances on existing cards to at or near their limits. The companies justify this activity by saying that consumers who do these things create greater risk for the lender, and these costs must be passed on to all of their customers. The problem for the customer is that these higher interest rates are often assigned without warning. The new rate applies to existing balances, too. An interest rate hike today could mean that the television you bought last fall has suddenly become more expensive.

Avoiding A Nightmare On Renovation Street

You've decided you want a bigger, better and more desirable house. How do you determine when to renovate, what to do and importantly, how much will it cost and will we get our money back?

Unless you're in the building industry, most people are fairly naïve when it comes to making decisions about renovating. Poor choices can be costly, especially if you over-capitalise and spend too much money on the house of your dreams.

Michael Hoad of the Subiaco offices of real estate agents Paxton Hoad says many people make the mistake of not planning and fully costing their renovations.

"Any form of construction costs more than you think when you start and many people don't understand or underestimate what it costs to renovate."

"They make a lot of mistakes, often costly ones, such as why did I do that, I wish I made that smaller or bigger," he said.

Hoad also believes renovations date and what looked wonderful and up to date in 1985 may now look totally out of place.

"Everything has a life span and people really need to work out how long they're going to be in the house and the purpose for the renovations."

To avoid overcapitalising he recommends potential renovators look at the suburb and get a feel for what property is worth in the area before committing.

He gives the example of Subiaco, where land is tight, "if you've got a spot, in a half reasonable location, you'll get your money back and more."

He gives the example of owners in the suburb spending between $250,000 and $350,00 on renovations.

"The greatest increment is in the value of the land, houses generally depreciate offsetting increasing construction costs."

He also gives the example of a house valued at $400,000, where the transaction costs of moving cost more than $26,000 once agents fees and stamp duty are taken into account.

"Renovating is rewarding, it appeals to some people. Some people love it and others are not so creative," Hoad said.

Fremantle based architect, Philip Nikulinsky says many renovators get emotionally attached to a house and this is where they either overcapitalise or compromise the design of the renovation.

"A lot of people spend too much on the finishes and go overboard, that's when it becomes expensive."

"You've got to look at the end product. Every time you do something a bit different you're going to have to pay for it,' he said.

He says any significant renovation starts at around $120,000 and for older character style renovations owners should budget around $1,200 per square metre.

Nikulinsky's advice, "be rational about it, have nice finishes but don't go overboard."

This is a view backed up by builder Gary Matson of Subiaco Homes. He says it's often cheaper to demolish a house and start again.

"For 30s, 40s and 50s houses there's not a lot to retain, so you're spending a lot of money to achieve fairly little," he said.

In older areas he says its worth keeping the character, but again emphasises the importance of doing a budget and looking at ways of how money can be saved to avoid blowing out the budget.

Here are 8 tips for first time renovators.

1. Have your house valued. Get an independent view on how much your asset is worth. This will provide a benchmark on how much to spend.

2. Gather information about your area. Talk to real estate agents about how much properties in your area or street have been selling for. Get a feel for the market.

3. Work out what you want? What style of renovation do you want? In period or ultra-contemporary? What will you use the renovations for? What type of look do you want? This will determine the finishes and impact on your budget.

4. Plan your budget before you start. Work out how much you want to spend, how you will finance your renovations and what you expect to get for your money. Do you want to spend $6,000 on a kitchen or $26,000?

5. Do your sums and compare the costs of renovating versus selling.

6. Take a long hard look at the positives and negatives of each option in a logical and rational way.

7. Avoid becoming emotionally attached to your property or a design. Often this can cloud your views, costing too much money for your budget or impacting on the overall effect of the renovation. Take a rational approach to the decision of selling and moving versus renovating, or demolishing versus renovating.

8. Seek professional help. Get a range of quotes from builders, architects and those in the industry.

By Thomas Murrell MBA CSP

Resources to Help You Learn About and Protect Yourself from Identity Theft

There is a new bill that is being passes, it is a very weak bill but if passed, it will prohibit using a social security number for identification purposes. This bill should take affect in 2006.

If you feel you have been a victim of identity fraud, contact the Department of Justice, consumer protection division. They offer mediation with identity theft; they also have a hot line for consumers that is available 8-5 Monday - Friday. They maintain a database of written complaints that goes back to 1998. They offer seminars to school, seniors or your group.

Be aware that 40 million crooks obtained credit card numbers this past year, "Be Suspicious". Also be aware that most identify theft is not reported, especially when it involves family members, so the statistics are off. These statistics show that consumers lost $5 billion last year when in actuality it is closer to $50 billion. There have been an estimated 9.9 million victims in America.

U.S. Postal Inspection Service
www.usps.com/postalinspectors

Federal Trade Commission
www.consumer.gov.idtheft
877-IDTHEFT or TTY - 202-326-2502

U.S. Secret Service
www.secretservice.gov

Department of Justice
www.usdoj.gov/criminal/fraud/idtheft

Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation
www.fdic.gov/consumers

Equifax
www.exuifax.com
800-525-6285

Experian
www.experian.com
888-397-3742

Trans union
www.transunion.com
800-680-7289

Social Security Administration Fraud Hotline
PO Box 17768
Baltimore, MD 21235
800-269-0271
www.socialsecurity.gov

North American Securities Agency Administrators (NASAA)
www.nasaa.org

Better Business Bureau
www.search.bbb.org/search.html

United States Postal Service
www.usps.com

National Do Not Call Registry
www.donotcall.gov
888-382-1222

Direct marketing Association Consumer Assistance
http://www.dmaconsumers.org/consumerassistance.html Registering by mail is FREE and registering online is $5.00. To remove your name from national mailing lists by mail:

Mail Preference Service
Direct Marketing Association
PO Box 643
Carmel, NY 10512

Identity Theft Resource Center
www.idtheftcenter.org
858-693-7935

International check service
800-526-5380

Telecheck
800-927-0755

Certegy Check Services
800-437-5120

Internet Fraud Complaint Center
http://www.ifccfbi.gov/index.asp

Fight Identity Theft
http://www.fightidentitytheft.com/

By Michelle Dunn

Budgeting -- The Critical Flaw That Causes Most Budgets to Fail

Budgeting. It's a word we're all familiar with. Everyone knows what a budget is, right? Yet how many of us actually make and stick to a solid monthly budget? The truth is that most of us start out with the best of intentions, but an unexpected expense comes up and busts our budget. Then we give up and go back to juggling our finances and worrying about having too much month left at the end of the money. However, if you are striving to create a budget for the purpose of systematically paying off your debts, or to start a savings and investment program, then it's critical to develop a workable and realistic budget.

So what's the problem? Why do most of us fail at the simple task of creating a budget so we can live within our means? The simple truth is that most budgets don't work because they fail to account for irregular or variable expenses. Everyone knows how much their rent or mortgage payment is. It's the same amount month after month. If your rent is $1,000 per month, that's a "no-brainer." The same is true of many other fixed expenses, such as auto loan payments, cable TV subscriptions, insurance premiums, and so on. It's easy to budget for these expenses because the amounts don't change from one month to the next.

Besides expenses that are the exact same figure each month, there are numerous types of expenses that vary a little from one month to the next, yet we still have a pretty good idea what we spend each month. A good example is our grocery bill. Most of us have a fairly clear picture of how much we spend each week at the supermarket. So we can insert a realistic figure into our budget-in-progress and not be too far off the mark. Sure, the amounts may go up or down slightly each month, but we usually know the range we're dealing with. Other examples of this category include telephone bills, utility bills, and gasoline (although this one certainly seems to be going nowhere but up these days!).

The real culprit in busted budgets, however, is the variable or irregular expense. How much will you spend on car repairs over the next 12 months? What about medical bills? Home maintenance costs? It seems that bills for these types of expenses hit us out of left field, and there goes our budget. Before long, we're using food money to cover a new set of tires for our car, and the whole budget comes crashing down.

So what's the solution? There is no perfect answer to this problem. But we can come to a close approximation by using the simple technique of monthly averaging. Start by gathering 12 months' worth of checkbook registers, bank statements, and credit card statements. Write down (or enter into a spreadsheet) how much you spent each and every time your money went toward something that was not a fixed expense. Group these expenditures into categories, such as auto, home maintenance, clothes, etc. Don't try to break it down too far. What you want is a handful of useful categories. Then keep listing each of these expenses under their relevant categories for the full 12-month period.

When you are done with this exercise, you should have an excellent idea of your total annual expenditure for these variable expenses. For example, if you add up all the automobile repair or maintenance expenses for the year, and the figure comes to $1,200, then divide by 12 to get the result of $100 per month average. That's how much you need to allow in your monthly budget in order to build up enough reserves to handle an auto repair when it comes up. Again, this method isn't perfect, because an expense may come up that exceeds your estimated outlay, but at least it takes into account a closer approximation to reality than simply guessing, or worse, ignoring auto maintenance in your budgeting.

The trick here is to set up a separate savings account in which to set aside these "extra" funds. Let's say the "extra" $100 goes into the savings account for six months, and then you get hit with an auto repair for $400. You pull the money from your $600 savings that was purposely built up for this type of expense. This way, you're automatically setting aside amounts intended to cover each type of irregular expense that you encountered over the previous year.

Most people are shocked when they perform this 12-month analysis of irregular expenses, and it immediately becomes clear why their budget is always breaking down. This technique leads to the discipline necessary to recognize that "extra" money is seldom really extra. If we think we have our bills covered, and there is some cash burning a hole in our pocket, our tendency is to spend it on something fun. But if we know that there really is no cash left over, because we haven't yet set aside the extra $100 needed to keep our car on the road, then we'll be less inclined to spend it on pizza, beer, and movies.

Budgeting can be successfully accomplished by this technique of monthly averaging, especially if we consistently apply it year after year. As we move forward, our understanding of our true expenses becomes clearer and clearer, and we are no longer surprised by the occasional unexpected expense. The best way to implement this approach is to set up a regular savings program, where the amount you're setting aside to cover irregular expenses gets automatically deducted from your paycheck and forwarded to your savings account. If the money is deducted from your paycheck before you even see it, then you will be less tempted to skip this critical part of the budgeting process, and you will greatly increase the chances of making a budget work over the long term.

By Charles J. Phelan

How to Save for A Down Payment

Saving for a Down Payment is hard work, so it's a good idea to really want to own your own home by the time you begin your Savings Account. It's difficult to turn down a weekend in the Bahamas (or Downtown at the Clubs!) when you don't have a definite goal.

Step One: Get a Job! This will definitely help you to find the money to save! ha,ha!

Step Two: Keep the Job -- longevity on the Job is a major factor the Financial Institutions look for when your trying to qualify for a Mortgage.

Step Three: Go over your spending habits with a fine tooth comb. (Please, this is strictly figurative! No yucky combs on your Financial Papers!) Ask yourself some very serious questions -- Do you really need to spend $5.00 for a cup of coffee five times a day? Even though it's fabulously delicious?? Even one cup at $3.25/day is $1186.25 a year. Five cups at price per day would be $5931,25. That's a lot of money, and often enough for a Down Payment.

It's a good idea to right down everything you actually purchase -- lottery tickets, coffee, lunches, snacks, clothes you don't really need -- it's the 'little incidentals' that really add up.

Step Four: Start a separate Bank Account, just for your 'house-to-be'. Anything you can put in there is good -- if you can manage $25.00/week, that's $1300. a year; $50./week gets you $2,600. a year, and if you can swing a $100./week, that's $5200. in a year.

You'll be shocked at how easy it is to piddle away $100. on all sorts of little things -- when you make the big decision to Buy Your Own Place, all of a sudden, you'll find yourself prioritizing...and that doesn't mean you have to slap your own hand to stop yourself from frivilous spending (which, sadly enough, happens to be the most fun type of spending! ha,ha!). You'll just make the decision one day that you need to Own Your Own Home so you can 1) Make Money, 2) Not hand over your money and have nothing to show for it at the end of the day -- say, Monday...yuff, yuff! 3) Secure your Future.

Step Five: Find out how much you can borrow for your new place. Click on-line so you can quickly determine this info. Especially if you're new to the Real Estate game, it's less stressful than heading in to the Bank, plus you don't have to make a special appointment!

Step Six: Start Looking for Your New Place! Check out the great new Condos that are all over the place, now. They have really good Payment Plans, and if you make your Purchase before they're built, you'll score a great deal.

Contact a Realtor to find out what's available in your Price Range -- they're there to help you, and can really help to narrow down the field and get you into something you can afford and love.

Remember that you don't have to live anywhere forever -- a lot of people fall into the trap that they can't buy because they're not sure where they'll be 5 or 10 years from now... even if you only have a year that you're sure about, go ahead and Buy. You can always sell it, and you won't lose money on Real Estate -- maybe you'll walk away with an extra $10,000. - $50,000. from the Property Values going up! Now, that ain't bad! Not bad at all!

Here's a little Tip for Women: You know, it's more common than you might think that a lot of women are 'waiting for a man' before they even start to think about buying a place. Forget that! Men, Schmen! Go get it yourself, Girl! And keep it until you're sure you really like him... In the 'olden days', like when I was in my twenties in the early 80's (!), there was a weird thing that if a woman had her own place, then she was putting out a message that 'she didn't need a man'..., and so a lot of women would wait until marriage before attempting to purchase a home.

Thank God those days are gone! Puh-leeease! It's always nice to have a man, but women don't technically need them ... for any length of time, anyway... and you can go ahead and get your own place without waiting for anyone. You can be comfy and cozy on your own no matter who you are... you can always sell it later and buy something different together, which is a healthier to do for a new relationship, anyway, right??

So start Saving and before you know it, you'll be moving into your very own home. Then you can start saving up to go to the Bahamas, and go dancing on the Island!

By Ailsa Forshaw

The Good and the Bad of Money Management

Good money management needn't be difficult. In fact, there a number of easy steps recommended by most financial professionals to help manage your finances better.

Pay your bills on time to avoid late fees.

Don't wait until the red bill turns up! Make notes of due dates in your diary and remember to allow extra time for postal payments to reach the recipient.

Pay more than the minimum on your credit cards.

If you are paid weekly then pay a little each week rather than waiting until the monthly statement arrives.

Read your bank statement regularly.

Keep an eye on all your incomings and outgoings.

Check your credit report annually for accuracy.

These days identity theft is very common so you need to make sure you

are not paying someone else's charges.

Look around for and switch to credit cards with lower rates.

Many credit card companies offer low interest rates for transferring balances from another card.

Follow a monthly budget.

This may be easier said than done but if you are sensible about your outgoings then you will find managing your money much easier.

However sometimes things can go wrong. We all want to be able to be in control of our finances but we often make mistakes without realizing it. If you are concerned that you are using bad money management then you should always seek advice from a financial professional.

Here are some of the most common bad money management errors:

Not paying your bills on time

Keeping high rate credit cards

Neglecting to put aside emergency funds

Leaving preparing a will until it is too late

Not reading your bank statement carefully

Neglecting to contribute to a retirement account

Not checking your credit report annually for accuracy

Only paying the minimum monthly payment on your credit cards

Buying the first insurance you come across without shopping around

Failing to adjust your W-4 annually to make sure you are not paying too much

If you address the above issues wherever possible then you will no longer be guilty of bad money management and you may be pleasantly surprised how much better off you are financially in the long term.

By Lorna Mclaren

Why Live Frugally

What is it about being frugal, why do it at all? Actually, some people don't do it at all, they have decided that what they want and desire is what they are going to get and they feel they deserve it. I have no trouble with that; more power to ya, live long and prosper and may you die with the most toys. However, for me, I find little value in the things around me.

When I was a teenager, things were my identity. However, as I have gotten older and through one situation or another I have learned to separate myself from the items in my home. Let me give you an example; quite a few years ago I was given a leather jacket, I always wanted one because I thought they were cool and thus, I would be cool. I got it and I loved, I loved it so much I rarely wore it for fear of losing it or ruining it beyond repair. I wanted it to stay 'new' and always carry that memory I had of when I first received it and the person who gave it to me. As the years passed and I was in some hard times, I needed money for necessities and didn't know what to do, until I saw the jacket in the closet in all it's shiny newness and cleanliness. "I could get some money for that", I thought. I proceeded to take it to the pawnshop (this was before eBay) and get A LOT less than what in my mind it was worth to me. It killed me to take that jacket in, but I had to and to do it, I had to distance myself from the experience so I could get it done. And surprisingly, I still have the memory of receiving that jacket with no loss of value in my mind.

Since that time, through losses of one thing or another, I learned that my own self worth or value isn't based on what I have around me. A side note: I in NO way think I am superior than the woman that drives the jag to her 5 bedroom home, in fact I hope she is happy with her station in life and I wish her well. But for me, I will never aspire to that.

I guess when it comes down to being frugal or not, the question needs to be asked, "Does this fulfill me?" For myself less is more in my world; less to worry about, less to find space for, less to keep up. But, again, that's not everyone's cup of tea. Your level of tolerance for less may be higher than mine. I could easily whittle down my needs and wants, throw them in the car and go. That is how little I really need, besides a roof over my head and a steady stream of income.

Frugal living isn't a dreary task, I think we need to reward ourselves here and there. My luxury is going to the movies and seeing the blockbuster action movies and dramas. But doing that regularly would no longer be a treat but become a necessity if I could think up enough excuses.

Frugality in my opinion is also about moderation. Moderation is key no matter if I am eating, drinking, watching TV, going to movies or exercising. Excess is what happens when I stop controlling my life and let something else run it. It's about keeping things in check, whether it's my reasoning for buying and item or getting caught up in the good feeling a TV commercial gives me. (By the way, I have never gotten good cell phone service in the boonies like the ads show!)

Frugal living is temporary for some until they get back on their feet, for others it is a day to day necessity for who knows how long and for myself and others it is a voluntary decision, wherever you fit in there.

By Dawn Cadwell

7 Simple Ways To Save Money

Each of us knows how to spend money, but do we really know how to save our money? No, I am not necessarily talking about setting aside funds for an investments purposes - a good thing - but saving money on everyday items. Here are seven simple ways you can save money:

1. Use Appliances That Are Energy Efficient. Chances are your old refrigerator or washer is a pig on fuel. When shopping for a new unit, make sure that the energy rating is high. However, do not pay hundreds of extra dollars for a product if only a slightly higher energy rating is achieved. Instead, find out which model gives to you the highest possible energy rating for the buck.

2. Click Coupons. You can save money on shopping by clipping coupons. Many stores will even double or triple manufacturers' coupons up to a certain amount as an added "come on" to get you to shop.

3. Shop The Wholesale Clubs. BJs, Sam's Club, and Costco all offer savings generally 10-30% lower than the supermarkets. They take coupons too.

4. Get Free Samples. Manufacturers enjoy giving away samples of their products. Sometimes all it takes is a letter or an email to the appropriate department and your freebie will arrive in the mail in the form of a product or as a coupon allowing you to purchase the item locally for free.

5. Go To The Library. Barnes and Noble and Borders offer a wide selection of books to their customers. However, you may be able to find that same title at your free public library. If not, ask a librarian if they would order the book for you. Hey, a free book is better than the $25 you will pay for a bestseller!

6. Shop And Compare. The internet allows consumers the opportunity to shop and compare on almost any product sold anywhere. Find the best price and order online if the items is cheaper than ordering in person. Don't forget to take into consideration shipping, handling, and taxes when ordering via the web!

7. Reuse And Recycle. Chances are the item you are throwing away can be used again. If you definitely have no use for the item sell it at a garage sale and pocket the proceeds. In any case, you are contributing to a sound environment by not sending your unused good to the trash dump.

There are countless ways for you to save even beyond these seven. You need not be a skinflint to reap true benefits either, so start with these seven and come up with another seven ways for you to save too.

Saving Dimes Can Go a Long Way

On the other hand, there are those people who are saving dimes and every other cent. Perhaps its because they hate the clutter of change but want to get rid of it instead of letting it accumulate elsewhere or still rely on the fact that change has value and should be used accordingly. For those who find it hard to save, start with a small piggy bank and contribute any lose change to that bank and let it grow. Change that you were going to use to buy a snack from the vending machine or soda, use to contribute to your piggy bank. Bring snacks and drinks from home to save on cash.

Saving dimes may seem difficult to do but as stated before simply start contributing any lose change into a piggy bank. Then take on the next step. If you haven't created a personalized budget for yourself, now is the time to do so. A personalized budget lets you know how much money you have going out and how much money you have going in based on a monthly budget. Included in money going out will be all expenses for the month from mortgage/rent, utilities, food, gas, etc, and money that you are contributing to your savings. Income sources are listed under money coming in. Ideally you'd like to have more money coming in then going out. If you have more money going out, you are likely in debt, or on your way to debt.

If you are realizing that your expenses are outweighing your income then you need to learn to cut back on certain expenses. Make your lunch inside of buying it everyday, rent movies instead of going to the movies, or walk instead of drive if feasible.

In order to prevent yourself from spending your paycheck once you receive it, see if you can have a portion of it deducted and put into a separate account that way you don't even see it and therefore wont spend it. This way it seems as if you are working to pay yourself first, opposed to just working to pay your bills. Always remember in case an emergency arises you then have this money to turn to.

Do you have goals in life? Think back to your piggy bank scenario. All that time spent saving dimes can be put towards something, even if it's only a small chunk of money, it can then be added to your savings account periodically. Aim to achieve your goals, and once you do, you will feel the success from accomplishing them and be able to set new goals to strive for.

So perhaps you don't have any goals at the moment that involves taking a trip, getting out of debt, saving for a new house or so forth but think about why it's important to save money regardless.

What happens if your car breaks down, you need a new roof, or need to pay out of the pocket medical expenses? Most people don't have cash easily accessible for these situations so that's why it's important to have an emergency cushion available to be able to afford these expenses and avoid debt, so start saving dimes today!

Are you planning on retiring someday, if so you'll need to set aside some money to be able to live comfortably in your golden years.

Today people are living longer due to advances in medicine and public health which means if you live longer you are going to need more money to get by.

Although social security may provide you with some income in your future, it was never intended to be a primary source of income.

Education isn't getting cheaper; the cost of private and public education is increasing every year.

Don't put yourself at risk. What happens if you need a root canal, surgery, or whatever the personal case may be you don't want to be forced to take out a loan or put yourself in debt just to take care of your well being.

So with that said, start saving dimes today. Start small by saving dimes and then work your way up to a savings account, which will gain more interest with the more money you contribute.

By Katie Spencer

The Magic Of Compound Interest

Christians are called to be good stewards of God's resources. A steward can be described as someone who manages the resources of another. "The earth is the Lord's and all that is in it, the world and those who dwell therein"-Psalms 24:1 (The New English Bible). To effectively manage God's financial resources, it helps to have some understanding of modern day financial concepts, strategies, and mathematical formulas. Compound interest is a great ally in catapulting you toward achieving your financial goals. Through an understanding of compound interest, God can pour out a blessing upon you, which you will not be able to measure! Albert Einstein once called compound interest "the world's most impressive invention" and dubbed it the "eighth wonder of the world." Compound interest means all the money you've invested earns interest and then the combined amount of the original investments plus your interest earns more interest. Compounding means interest added to interest. Compound interest does not produce linear growth like the pattern 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and so on; it produces geometric growth through compounding like the pattern 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, and so on. Usually, the more frequently your money compounds when earning interest, the better. For example, daily compounding is normally better than monthly compounding, which is better than quarterly compounding, which is better than yearly compounding.

A basic formula for compound interest is as follows:

FV = ID (1 + R)T, then FV - ID

Where:
FV = Future Value
ID = Initial Deposit
R = Rate (interest rate earned)
T = Time (number of years invested)

Assuming the following investment--$10,000 Initial Deposit, 6% interest Rate, 5-year Time period, the math would work as follows:

FV = $10,000.00 x (1 + 0.06)5

Formula results by year are as follows:

Year 1 $10,000. 00 x (1 + 0.06)1 = $10,600.00

Year 2 $10,600. 00 x (1 + 0.06)2 = $11,236.00

Year 3 $11,236. 00 x (1 + 0.06)3 = $11,910.16

Year 4 $11,910. 16 x (1 + 0.06)4 = $12,624.77

Year 5 $12,624. 77 x (1 + 0.06)5 = $13,382.26.

Then FV - ID = $13,382.26 - $10,000.00 = $3,382.26 (Total Interest Earned).

The effect of the individual parts of the formula in combination with each other produces synergistic results in the outcome that are greater than the sum of its parts individually. In other words, small increases in any of the components can have a dramatic incremental effect on the total compound interest earned.

Another useful tool in approximating the magic of compounding is the "Rule of 72." Albert Einstein is credited with discovering the compound interest Rule of 72 and said, "It is the greatest mathematical discovery of all time." The Rule of 72 is a mathematical way of approximating the number of years it takes an investment to double in value. You estimate the number of years for an investment to double by dividing 72 by the annual rate of return. For example, if you expect to earn a 10% return on your $10,000 investment, then 72 divided by 10 = 7.2 years for your investment to double in value to $20,000. Conversely, if you expect your $10,000 investment to double in 7.2 years and you want to know the interest rate needed, you simply take 72 divided by 7.2 = 10% interest. You can even use it to compare stock market interest rate returns to other investments. For example, assume you are looking at lots with a real estate agent. The agent tells you the properties have doubled in value during the last 14 years. You could get a quick estimate of the increase per year in value by doing the following math: 72 divided by 14 = 5.14% per year.

There is one formula that is infinitely more important than even the "Rule of 72": "1" cross + "3" nails = "4" given. Praise God!

Bill G. Page is the author of Making Money Work: A Christian Guide For Personal Finance. This book explains the "Rule of 72" and many other financial concepts. It includes a CD ROM so you can easily calculate compound interest and lots of other complicated financial formulas. The book can be ordered from www.MakingMoneyWork.us or you may request the book from your local Christian bookstore-available to retail stores through Spring Arbor and Appalachian Christian book distributors beginning in September 2005.

This article is adapted from Making Money Work: A Christian Guide For Personal Finance with permission of Willie Glenn Page, Inc. Copyright 2005.

By Bill G. Page

How to Choose Wisely a Credit Card

So, you've made the decision to apply for a credit card. It's an important step for any consumer. Whether this is your first application in an effort to establish your credit, an addition to your existing credit card portfolio, or a plan to re-establish unsatisfactory credit, it is critical to research and fully understand the plans associated with various types of credit cards.

Before beginning the research process, consider and decide how you will use your new credit card. Will you be using the card for everyday purchases, or will you be taking an exotic vacation? Do you plan to pay the balance in full each month, or do you prefer to make monthly payments? Since APRs (annual percentage rates) vary for each card and respective payment plan, it's important to make these types of decisions before the credit card selection and application process.

Obtaining credit is not free, but can be economical and less costly if you understand the finance charges (the cost you pay for using a credit card). Grace periods may help reduce certain finance charges, depending on the individual credit card company offer. A grace period is the number of days you are given to pay your credit card balance in full before you are charged a finance charge. In most cases, finance charges are applied to new purchases only. (Cash advance finance charges are usually imposed immediately following the advance.)

Familiarize yourself with the annual percentage rate. An annual percentage rate represents the interest rate associated with using your credit card for purchases and cash advances. The APR is often a determining factor for many consumers when selecting and applying for a credit card. Credit card companies may vary their APRs, offering a different rate for purchases, cash advances, introductory periods and penalties. Traditionally, purchases carry the lowest APR. An exception may be an introductory APR for new purchases or balance transfers that may be offered at 0% for qualified applicants.

Many credit card companies competing for your business may offer a lower introductory APR of 0% for a specified period, for example, six months. At the end of this specified period, the APR will change to a pre-determined APR. (This information will be included in the credit card offer.) Therefore, it's very important to understand the APR following the introductory rate period, particularly if you will be using the card for large purchases and / or balance transfers. Also look for companies offering 0% interest on balance transfers with no time limit. Cash advances usually carry a slightly higher APR than purchases, but will vary for each credit card company.

An annual fee is another cost associated with using a credit card. Many think of annual fees in this way, the greater the APR, the lesser the annual fee. While this may be true in some cases, these fees are typically charged annually and usually will be subject to finance charges. Some special credit card offers, such as unsecured or unlimited credit card types and lines, may impose a higher annual fee.

In addition to a possible annual fee, many credit card companies impose charges through other fees such as late payment penalties, over limit fees and cash advance fees.

With the growing competition amongst credit card providers, new plans such as rewards and points programs are offered as incentives. These programs may offer earned 'points' or privileges for consumer items, travel (vacations and frequent flier miles) and other premium services, but oftentimes impose an enrollment participation fee in addition to any annual credit card fee. If you are a frequent traveler, these special programs and incentives may appeal to your taste.

When reviewing each credit card offer, look for the specific information outlined here to best determine the most appropriate card type and plan for your needs. You may elect to use a comparison chart of your own when considering credit card programs to more carefully select the best offer. Using the categories listed above (APR, finance charge, grace period, annual fee, etc.) create a left-hand column containing specific information about each category. Then, create a column for each credit card offer you are considering. This method will afford you a side-by-side, line item comparison to assist you in making a final decision.

Accessing Funds You Never Knew You Had- Household Utilities and Mortgage Expense Reduction Plan

 For most of us the process of getting out of debt and pursuing a venture that would create an income stream leading to early retirement seems just a pipe dream. It goes without saying; it takes money to make money. Most of us have had our eye on pursuing a stock, invention patent, greater education or a small business only to have our goals cut short because of lack of funds. The fact is we may have access to more funds than we realize. In this article we will discuss the three keys to having your money make more money sooner than later. The three keys are:

Reducing Expenses By Cutting Costs

Reevaluating Your Financial Situation

Freeing Up Financing Funds

Channeling Funds Toward Your Goal

Reducing Expenses By Cutting Costs

The key to finding money is freeing up funds from current expenses. We are all accustomed to doing things like turning out the lights, cutting back on gasoline consumption or reducing heating and air use. We use coupons to cut shopping bills in half and do the two for one meal deal whenever possible. But did you know that if you smoke a pack of cigarettes a day, it is costing you almost $3000 a year. Over 10 years that $30,000 dollars. What could you do with all that money? Improve the quality of life.

Reevaluating Your Financial Situation

Take a closer look at your financial situation and goals. Where are you putting your money right now? Did you use it to sink a ship? That is, have you sunk a fortune in stocks that have done nothing but consumed your hard earned money or worse gone belly up? If so move your money to a more secure haven such as everyday household items in the over the counter drugs or computer-tech sector.

Enter A Debt Settlement Agreement

Do you have a lot of debt? Think about making a settlement agreement with your debtors. In many cases debtors will cut interest and penalty charges off you bill if you agree to pay the bill off completely. For bills of $10,000 or more you may be able to cut costs by as much as $3000 on settlement.

Freeing Up Financing Funds

We often miss a big expense guzzler, our home mortgage. Currently the average homeowner is paying 20 - 30% more in interest rate charges than is necessary. That represents one third of interest paid out over the life of the loan. These are enormous mortgage amounts that could be saved and channeled toward other essential uses such as making more money.

When refinancing a homeowner discovers that he may be able to reduce mortgage payments by almost half the amount and save tens of thousands of dollars over the life of the loan. The following chart lists best interest rates of the day. Compare them to your current mortgage rate and note the difference when opting to refinance your home loan.

Best Mortgage Rate Chart

30 Year Fixed 5.46% 0.52 5.57% -0.010% 15 Year Fixed 5.04% 0.57 5.25% -0.040% 30 Year Fixed Jumbo 5.73% 0.62 5.84% -0.010% 15 Year Fixed Jumbo 5.29% 0.61 5.48% -0.010% 5 Year Balloon 5.36% 0.83 5.93% 0.000% 7 Year Balloon 5.55% 0.61 5.93% -0.060% 1/1 ARM 4.42% 0.65 6.24% 0.060% 3/1 ARM 4.77% 0.64 5.90% -0.060% 5/1 ARM 5.01% 0.58 5.80% -0.010% 1/1 Jumbo ARM 4.19% 0.87 6.28% -0.230% 3/1 Jumbo ARM 4.92% 0.75 6.02% -0.120% 5/1 Jumbo ARM 5.12% 0.65 5.98% -0.040% FHA 30 Year Fixed 5.35% 0.51 5.46% -0.020% FHA 1 Yr ARM 4.46% 0.60 6.39% 0.040% VA 30 Year Fixed 5.44% 0.41 5.54% 0.000%

example of best average mortgage rates as published in 2005

Freeing Up Funds With A Home Equity Loan

You can free up funds to invest by taking out a home equity loan. For example, a $200,000 home with a $125,000 mortgage has $75,000 in equity. Now using a mortgage payment calculation tool such as is found at www.bcpl.net/~ibcnet/ compare mortgage payments at current rates with he mortgage rates in the chart. Significant savings? If so, you see the value of opting for home loan refinancing.

Many who choose to refinance their home also choose the cash out home refinancing program. This not only frees up funds per month but also puts immediate cash in hand for other purposes such as investing in stocks and bonds or pursuing a business venture or some other income generating pursuit.

$600 - $800 A Month Saved Refinancing

One client saved over $800 a month, that's almost a $10,000 savings per year. Another saved over $600 per month with the cash out refinancing program and got $75,000 in cash to pursue an investment property.

Channeling Funds Toward Your Goal

Once the loan is funded borrowers can put a percentage of the funds into a small business venture or stock investment. Soon the money is growing more money. Now you want to use your profits to pay down your home mortgage. Over time you will be able to free yourself from mortgage debt much sooner and save even more money, channeling it back into your business or retirement investment funds. And that is the key to building wealth and raising the quality of life another notch.

By Mark Askew

One Income Source Is Not Enough!

My personal opinion is that in today's new economy, it is wise to have multiple income streams. Reliance on one income source poses a risk to individuals, entrepreneurs, and even large corporations. A single-source income stream, rather it comes from a job, a million-dollar customer, or a highly targeted market segment can dry up for any number of reasons.

I live in Michigan where many people derive their income from the auto industry. A downturn in that industry can affect masses of people in various industries because their critical source-point is the auto industry. In fact, before I got laid off from IBM last year, Ford was their biggest client here in Michigan. As Ford started making drastic cuts, so did IBM and many other IT consulting companies. This trend happened over and over again and our mid-western economy has still not fully recovered.

People still assume that a job provides security but the reality of unemployment tells an entirely different story. I was laid off for 7 months and I had plenty of time to come to terms with my own financial vulnerability. Financial consultants have always advised a person to have 6 months income saved up and as sound as this advice is, many people don't even have 2 months income saved up; they are actually living from paycheck to paycheck.

Over my 20+ year career, I've gone through the down-sizing fiasco more than 5 times and I would be quite foolish to pretend that I can depend on a job to be there just because I need the money. Jobs are good?they keep the economy flowing?people get paid?people spend money?the money flows in and out and everybody's happy. But?and this is a big BUT, jobs cannot be viewed as the single source of personal long-term security. Our view of jobs have to change to match the reality and the reality is - we'd better learn to manage our money well and we'd better learn to generate income from multiple sources if we want to create financial security.

There are a few people who don't have to worry about money now or in the future. They have money handled; their income is quite substantial, their lifestyle is affordable, their savings, investments, and retirement plans are unassailable. Most wealthy people cannot even claim this kind of stability because their lifestyles are exorbitant and out of control. But there are people who simply have no money worries; they made the right career choice, they love their work, they handle their career and money like an expert. How many people do you know that fall into this category? Not very many, right.

It's true, money doesn't buy happiness but don't let anyone trick you into believing that you can have a quality life without certain financial means. In western society, having a certain income is essential to survival. I know everyone who reads this article may not be suited to join my business but everyone who is looking for way to give themselves some financial breathing room should consider three things, controlling the money going out, diversifying the income streams, and increasing the money coming in. Starting a part-time home-based business is an excellent way to do this. This is one of very few ways that a person can legitimately reduce their tax liabilities and take the money they save and use it to make more money.

By Robin Harris

Debt Management - More Ways to Save on Gas Consumption

The price of gas continues to climb, and with continued uncertainty in the Middle East, they will probably continue to do so. In California and elsewhere, prices for some grades of gas have now reached the previously unthinkable three dollars a gallon. Granted, that is lower than the inflation-adjusted prices of early 1981, but that doesn't make anyone feel better when they've just paid nearly $100 to fill the tank of their sport utility vehicle.

In a previous article, we offered some solutions as to how the average consumer can either save on gas prices or use less gas. These tips included using credit cards with cashback rebates, keeping your car tuned and tires inflated, and keeping the car washed and waxed, which reduces drag. Here are a few additional tips which will help ease the strain of filling your tank.



Empty your trunk. Some people drive around with their trunks nearly full with things that just don't need to be there. Sure, you need a jack and a spare, but do you really need a toolbox, golf clubs, and that pile of old clothes you've been meaning to drop off at the Salvation Army? Any extra weight you carry requires additional energy to make your car or SUV move. Lighten the load and your engine won't work as hard or use as much fuel.



Drive efficiently. That means accelerating gradually, rather than speeding out of an intersection. Your car uses fuel more effectively when you gradually accelerate. Once you achieve your desired speed, keep it steady, using cruise control if you have it. Speeding up and slowing down only uses more gas.



Shift appropriately if you're driving a car with a manual transmission. Shift at the factory recommended shift points, rather than running your tachometer all the way up before shifting. Your car runs best within a fairly narrow RPM range.

Each of these tips offers a small saving in fuel consumption. When combined with others, they add up and can produce significant savings. If you can increase your fuel consumption by just two miles per gallon, you can save $30-40 on a 1000-mile trip in your SUV. When you're paying $3.09 per gallon, every penny counts.

©Copyright 2005 by Retro Marketing

Five Secrets for Long-term Financial Success

Future financial success is not a guarantee that any one of us can rely upon, no matter how wealthy we are now or intend to become.

There are however five future proofing financial steps that we can take to protect our current financial status, improve our future financial prospects and secure our long-term financial success.

1) Know The Different Between Good Debt & Bad Debt

Bad debt is any debt that accrues interest month after month on outstanding balances and includes credit card debt of course, which is now the most common type of bad debt that we are all burdened with. Other examples of bad debt include store card debt, home secured loans other than your mortgage and any money borrowed from lenders dealing with high risk borrowers as they charge the highest rates of interest and have the most restrictive and inflexible terms and conditions.

Good debt is really only your mortgage, although some people would argue with me and include car finance in this category even though a car is not an essential item for most people - if we're honest with ourselves! Good debt in the form of your mortgage enables you to afford the roof over your head and for most of us it is the only way we will ever be able to afford a home.

A mortgage with an attractive and affordable interest rate will of course cost you money but at the same time it enables you to purchase a capital growth appreciating asset that you can later sell and redeem cash from or pass to your heirs upon death and that will be a positively tangible asset to benefit their financial futures.

2) Get Out Of Bad Debt

Examine all of the bad debt you have and prioritize the amounts to be paid off first by beginning with the most expensive debt in interest and charge terms. Every month pay off as much as you can afford from your number one debt and proceed with this approach right through every bad debt you have until you have no outstanding amounts remaining.

Then - take on no new bad debt! Keep out of credit card and loan hell.

3) Pay Off Your Good Debt

Having worked hard for as long as it takes to pay off all of your bad debt you can now turn your attention to your mortgage - some mortgage lenders penalize for early repayment so consider re-mortgaging if you can get a better or same rate of interest and you won't incur arrangement fees, or try to arrange new terms with your current lender that will allow you to make regular lump sum repayments.

The shorter the life of your debt the less interest you will pay and the sooner you will own your own home - your most significant financial asset - outright. This will give you massive security and also free you up financially to enjoy life to the full and save more towards your retirement.

4) Save For Retirement

Most governments of the civilized world reward their citizens with tax breaks on retirement savings made. Furthermore many conscientious employers add to an employee's contribution to a works pension scheme. Find out what benefits you're entitled to and get a retirement savings plan in place immediately. It is never too early to start saving for retirement.

Whilst paying off your debt is an essential step on the road to long-term financial success, so ensuring your future is secured through saving today for your own financial wellbeing is an essential step. After all, if you don't look after your best interests, no one else will.

Put as much as you can possibly afford each month into the best savings or investment product to suit your requirements and circumstances - and start today.

5) Protect Your Personal & Financial Assets

Insure your life, your family, your health, your business and your home - then use the services and advice of qualified taxation and trust professionals to find out whether there are legal and legitimate ways in which you can reduce your overall taxation burden and your estate's future inheritance or death taxation burden.

Look after your personal interests today and ensure that your financial assets are protected for life.

By Rhiannon Williamson

Government Grants - Beware of Scams

As the saying goes: "Buyer Beware". If you see ads claiming you qualify to receive a "free grant" for education, to start a home business or to payoff unpaid bills, be wary. Scam artists will claim your grant application is guaranteed to be accepted and approved, and you never have to repay the money. But the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) warns that these grant offers are often a scam. The grant isn't free, nor is it guaranteed, nor is a refund.

According to the FTC, some scam artists market "free grants" in classified ads and even provide a toll free phone number. Here's an example of what happens when you call:

A company representative asks non-threatening, simple questions to supposedly determine if you qualify to receive a grant. The representative then acts as if he/she is checking your eligibility, and then congratulates you as being eligible. But for you to get the grant information from them, they will charge you a processing fee. Although they will promise you that the grant is guaranteed or you can get your money back, the truth is far different.

They will tell you that the processing fee is for finding a grant source and sending you the appropriate application package in the mail. But you won't receive an application or a source. Instead they send you a list of agencies and foundations which you must write and request an application. In order to get your refund, you must apply to; and be rejected by, all these agencies within 90 days.

Most grantors don't award grants to individuals for personal needs. Generally grants are to serve mankind and communities as a whole, such as job expansion, training under-employed youth, preserving history, funding charities, art museums, or for researching medical issues. So, even if you're in a financial hardship, or you may be an unwed mother, a single parent, a minority, etc, you're not likely to approved. And you may as well forget about getting a refund from the grant "broker" because the conditions for a refund are nearly impossible, requiring you to apply at every grantor on the list they provided to you and be denied by each resource within 90 days. If even one resource doesn't reject you within the first 90 days, you won't get your refund, nor will you get it back if the rejections are past the 90 day requirement.

If you're thinking about applying for a grant, remember that the applications are available to you for free and that anyone who guarantees you a grant is likely to be interested in their own financial gain, not yours. If you think you may have been a victim of a grant scam, file a complaint with the FTC by visiting www.ftc.gov or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261.

Don't fall for grant scams. Use the free resources available to you at public libraries, on the internet, and at www.creditfederal.com/government-grant.html

by Toni Phelps

Basic Bank Accounts Failing the Basic Needs of Consumers

The lists of bank and savings accounts that are available to most people are bewildering. A quick look at a comparison site like Moneynet or Moneyfacts will reveal thousands of different products. Unfortunately many of these accounts are not accessible for anyone with either a poor or even no credit history.

Research carried out for the National Consumer Council (NCC) reveals "that the poor pay more, or get less, for essential goods and services? having a bank account can be a gateway to other products and services, such as affordable credit and insurance". To help counteract this problem of financial exclusion, the government has tried to initiate the introduction of basic bank accounts for the least well off. The NCC has however warned that, "the current model of basic bank accounts, introduced by government in 2000 in an attempt to enable all low-income consumers to access banking services, is not delivering."

The new basic bank accounts were introduced as part of a wider push towards 'universal banking' and corresponded with the introduction of direct payment of social security benefits to bank accounts as well as the Post Office Card Account (POCA). The plan was that these accounts would also help their users by letting them set up direct debits to pay their utility bills, and so keep better track of their finances from week to week.

The accounts were originally designed to let people save and withdraw money, but in an effort to prevent extending any existing debts and stopping the accounts from becoming overdrawn, they don't offer cheque books, overdrafts or other credit facilities. The accounts were intended for those with no credit history who might not meet the banks' criteria for opening a standard current account. The accounts features typically include the ability for payments, for example pensions and benefits, to be credited direct to the account, withdrawals by plastic card through cash machines and the facility to pay bills by direct debit.

The problems experienced seem to be partly because the accounts do not always help those with a small weekly income to deal with the unpredictable gaps which can occur in wages, benefits or spending. Automated monthly direct debit payments for goods and services can prove of little use to many on low weekly based incomes. Those paid on a week by week basis, expressed a preference for weekly cash based, rather than monthly direct debit, budgeting options and felt that bank accounts with direct debit facilities would not provide them any advantages. By using cash instead of a bank account, they found they could juggle payments easier, and avoid punitive additional bank charges if they did not have the funds to hand, to cover an outgoing debit payment.

Another problem experienced was that the holders of these basic accounts are also liable to be those on low incomes, with low (if any) savings and are more likely to be in arrears paying their household bills than those without them. This vulnerable group are less likely than most to be able to deal with unexpected additional expenditure, such as an unforeseen bill for home repairs, but without recourse to any credit facilities, they may be forced into resorting to high interest loans to cover temporary setbacks.

The NCC found that "people on low incomes who use accounts to manage their money are more likely to be in arrears with household bills. They are also more likely to have outstanding credit commitments, partly because they have wider access to credit", than those without accounts.

The government has set a target of halving the number of households which do not have access to a bank account by 2006. The banks state that they currently face a lack of demand, however more than two million applications, in excess of the government's expected take-up, for the POCAs have been made. The banks are claiming that reaching the targets will be difficult, as they are being impeded by various barriers to opening basic bank accounts, such as the identification requirements in money laundering rules. Some of those on low incomes may not possess either a full driving license or full passport, and so find difficulties setting up new financial accounts. The banking industry has also been widely criticised for failing to actively promote basic bank accounts and, sometimes, for actually discouraging people from opening them.

The NCC proposed that basic bank accounts need to be more flexible. Suggestions to make the bank accounts meet the needs of consumers included offering weekly, rather than monthly, direct debit facilities where payments are only triggered if the money is available in the account, occasional payment holidays, and small free 'buffer zone' overdrafts.

Whether the lack of interest is due to the banks, the government, or the product itself, something needs to be done if there is to be an increase in the take-up rates. Half of those surveyed by the NCC felt they do not really need an account. An even more damning indictment of the current basic bank accounts was that a similar proportion of account holders preferred to withdraw all their income, rather than leave it in the account, and then manage it as cash. An inclusion policy may be a laudable idea, but it is no use if people do not want to be included, and it should not disadvantage those it is meant to help.